Solo Travel in Japan – A Three-Week Adventure
- Authors
- Name
- Stephen ♔ Ó Conchubhair
- Bluesky
- @stethewhitefox.bsky.social
Japan Calling
As a kid, I read comic books, and the first time I saw an illustration of Tokyo was in a worn-out comic from a second-hand book shop. The towering neon signs, winding alleyways, and ninjas mysteriously lurking in the shadows—Tokyo felt like another world. Decades later, stepping into the city's buzzing streets was surreal, as it came to life.
With previous solo travel experience—like a month in India (north to south) and exploring cities across Europe, the USA, and New Zealand—Japan felt like the natural next destination, especially for an independent traveler like me. In September 2023, I finally got the chance to make it happen.
My anticipation for this three-week journey was immense. As a quiet, bookish, mostly vegetarian Irish kid, my world was shaped by doodling, Choose Your Own Adventure books, and second-hand comics—one of my favorites being a Wolverine story set in Tokyo. Over time, my passion for art, film, architecture, and history deepened, and with it, my fascination with Japan’s culture and aesthetics.
Choosing September
After doing some research on the best time to visit Japan, I found that September was an ideal month for several reasons. It marks the beginning of the off-peak season, meaning fewer crowds and better value on hotels and restaurants—especially since the Japanese yen was quite low at the time. September also follows the peak of typhoon season (similar to how I visited India just after monsoon season in October), making the weather generally more agreeable. However, I quickly learned that Japan’s September climate could still be unpredictable, with unexpected humidity at times. 😊
Planning and Preparation
Traveling solo requires a bit of planning beforehand; however, the real beauty of solo travel is the freedom to change plans if desired, especially in a country with a unique language and culture. Here’s how I prepared:
Itinerary: I planned my route across Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Hiroshima, learning from my solo travel in India to leave a few days unplanned and visit somewhere a local would recommend.
Accommodation: I opted for a mix of 3-4 star hotels and aimed to stay in least one with an onsen for a traditional Japanese experience to feel like Ogami Ittō a character from one of my favorite manga Lone Wolf and Cub.
Transport:
- JR (Japan Rail) Pass made getting around efficient and cost-effective. The Shinkansen (High-Speed Train) is one of my favorite Japanese words and modes of transport. I love traveling by train, and to explore Japan efficiently, I purchased an unlimited rail pass. This allowed me to visit major cities Tokyo, Osaka, Hiroshima, Kyoto, and the scenic mountain town of Hakone in Kanagawa Prefecture. Interestingly, Hakone was recommended to me by a fellow traveler while on a shinkansen to Kyoto.
- Suica card which offers tap-and-go access to trains, buses, and trams across Japan. It can also be used to pay at vending machines, shops (bought some socks using it), and even for restaurants. I had purchased this card before traveling to Japan and used it in every city I visited.
Language: While I knew some basic Japanese phrases from some of my favorite Japanese films The 25 Most Influential Japanese Movie Directors of All Time, apps like Google Translate were invaluable. I also watched YouTube videos to practice pronouncing common Japanese words like Arigato and refined my bowing etiquette—a gesture I had first learned in India.
I enjoyed sprinkling in Japanese words I learned during my trip, finding them both fun and practical. In general, I think making an effort to speak a country’s language adds to the experience—people usually appreciate it. Even when my pronunciation wasn’t perfect, it often led to friendly laughter and positive interactions.
Highlights of My Trip Destinations
Tokyo: A Modern Megacity
📅 12th – 14th September
🏨 Stayed at: Hotel Monterey La Soeur Ginza
🍽 Food & Drinks:
- Craft Beer Bar Ibrew
- 🍸 Cocktails at Leap Bar
⛩ Explored:
- 🚅 Shinjuku & Shibuya: Bustling streets, neon lights, and the iconic Shibuya Crossing. Sshibuya Station is where I picked up my two week unlimited Shinkansen rail pass.
- Inari Shrine, Chuo City
🙇 Japanese word: "Sumimasen" The Meaning & Pronunciation of Sumimasen (すみません) in Japanese. "Sumimasen" is a great word to learn I used it when I got lost with a bow. It has many meanings; however, for me, the main one was "excuse me" when needing help.
After checking in at my hotel, I took some time to explore the area, indulging in unique local flavors. What I love about Japanese food is that you can get small dishes of things you might not try if they were part of a larger meal. I decided to try fermented squid guts, a surprisingly interesting dish! Later, I visited a small Inari Shrine tucked away in the city, offering a peaceful contrast to Tokyo’s fast-paced streets.
A highlight of the evening was enjoying craft beer at Ibrew an Izakaya (Japanese Style Tavern) and of course being Irish, I had to have a stout and yes it was very good and later unwinding with expertly crafted cocktails at Leap Bar—a perfect way to settle into the city. I also collected my two-week shinkansen pass, setting the stage for the adventures ahead.
I had visited many cities before coming to Tokyo, so I was somewhat prepared. Delhi was the most overwhelming city I had experienced, but once I got used to its rhythm, I felt at home. Tokyo had a similar energy, and like in India, I spent my first few days here and then returned at the end of my trip. A city of contrasts, blending futuristic skyscrapers with historic temples, Tokyo felt like a place where tradition and innovation seamlessly coexist.
Osaka: A fun Megacity
📅 14th – 18th September
🏨 Stayed at: Hotel Tokyu Stay Osaka Hommachi
🍽 Food & Drinks: Sobayoshi Shinsaibashi
🍺 ⚾ 🍥 Explored: Dotonbori
🙇 Japanese word: Itadakimasu (いただきます) – This phrase is used before meals to express gratitude, acknowledging the hard work of farmers, chefs, and even nature itself for providing the food.
My First Shinkansen Ride
My first Shinkansen experience took me from Tokyo to Osaka—a journey I had been eagerly anticipating. I arrived at the station an hour early, taking the metro with my trusty Suica card.
With extra time before departure, I treated myself to an iced matcha (my new favorite iced drink) and a bun, then did a little shopping for provisions. Since it was my first Shinkansen ride, I decided to indulge in a bento box after boarding—a beautifully arranged cold crab and salmon roe rice set.
Arriving at Osaka Station was a memorable experience. I used my Suica card to get to my hotel, but I got lost—my SIM card didn’t work, and I ended up buying a virtual SIM just to navigate properly.
As I explored Osaka, I made my way to the bustling Dotonbori district, especially to try Unadon—a Japanese dish featuring grilled eel (unagi) glazed with a sweet-savory tare sauce, served over a bowl of rice. It’s like a big bowl of Unagi Nigiri—grilled freshwater eel on sushi rice—but with a more indulgent portion. It’s closely related to Unaju, which is served in a lacquered box instead of a bowl.
I’ve always loved Unagi Nigiri, but this Unadon was on another level. The rich, smoky eel, the perfectly caramelized glaze, and the fluffy, steamed rice made it the best I’ve ever had. The fact that I had it on my birthday made the experience even more special.
I celebrated with karaoke and drinks with locals, and then on my way back to my hotel I heard some Japanese punk music in a coffee shop-turned-bar—an unforgettable night in Osaka.
I also had my first 7-Eleven experience in Japan, just a two-minute walk from my hotel. I had to try the egg sandwich after seeing Anthony Bourdain rave about it—it was incredibly good. I ate loads… maybe too many! Then, I discovered onigiri (triangular rice balls), which quickly became a favorite, especially the salted roe and vegetarian rice combos, paired with sparkling 🍶.
Hiroshima: my favorite walking city
📅 18th – 21th September
🏨 Stayed at: THE KNOT HIROSHIMA
🍽 Food & Drinks:
- 🍶🦪 Hotel The Knot morethan/
- 🍸 Cocktails at hotel-the-knot Kei
Explored: Atomic Bomb Dome
🙇 Japanese word: “Arigato Gozaimasu" (ありがとうございます) or "Arigato Gozaimashita" (ありがとうございました) Saying “Arigato Gozaimasu” is in general Thank you. Saying “Arigato Gozaimashita" Thank very much while leaving a restaurant.
Hiroshima holds a lot of resonance for me, having learned from an early age about the two atomic bombs dropped on these cities Hiroshama and Najsaki which was flooded I am glad instead of going here I left a few days free. The manga Akira comes to mind—I own both the books and the film. If you visit, do try the oysters. I bought a Hiroshima baseball shirt.
A city with a profound history, just taking the bus from the station to my hotel was a moving experience.
Kyoto: A Cultural Escape
📅 21th – 24th September
🏨 Stayed at: Hotel Grand Bach Kyoto Select
🍽 Food & Drinks:
⛩ Explored: Senbon Torii (Thousand Torii Gates)
🙇 Japanese word: Oishii (It's delicious) 美味しい this is a word you might use a lot if you like me love food.
The heart of Japan’s cultural heritage. Walking through the Fushimi Inari Shrine’s iconic torii gates and the serene Arashiyama Bamboo Grove was breathtaking and magical—reminiscent of a Studio Ghibli film. Kyoto was a nice change of pace, with a rich history, a vibrant yet walkable cityscape, and incredible food. I ate at a hilltop restaurant, where I had my favorite Japanese meal Unadon. I also ate at a famous crab restaurant chain it was several courses of crab tofu in a light crab soup was the highlight and my first time to have snow crab sashimi a delicacy.
Hakone: Onsen After Getting Lost in the Mountains
📅 24th – 27th September
🏨 Stayed at: Harriway Onsen Hotel Hakone
🍽 Food & Drinks: Tempura Restaurant
⛩ Explored: The Hakone Open-Air Museum
🙇 Japanese word: “Kawaii” (いただきます) A common term to describe something cute.
A tranquil mountain town known for its hot springs and stunning views of Mount Fuji. The recommendation to visit here was absolutely worth it. I traveled on small mountain trains from town to town, which was marvelous. My Google Maps didn’t work well here, so I got lost a couple of times. However, several locals helped me, with one even walking me through a shortcut to my train station.
Tokyo last days in Japan
📅 27th – 3rd October
🏨 Stayed at: Shinagawa Prince Hotel
🍽 Food & Drinks:
🗼 Explored: Tokyo Tower
🙇 Japanese word: "Hai" (はい), meaning 'yes,' is a word I used a lot in Japan, especially when I understood the answer or even when I didn’t—it always worked out anyway.
Tokyo Tower: I walked to Tokyo Tower, as I love wandering through cities. When traveling in a new country, getting lost and finding my way again is one of my favorite things to do.
Meiji Shrine & Asakusa: Buddhist chanting, drumming, and the calming atmosphere. I bought some incense here. Something I learned from India: when you need a break, visit a temple. They are usually quieter—unless you’re lucky enough to witness evening chanting as the sun sets.
I bought second hand Japanese clothes near Sensō-ji Hōzōmon Gate. My last week was in Tokyo was chaotic I met a local and we drank like a local for 24 hours in Tokyo.
Minato City Tokyo: Last meal local fish sashimi, steamed rice, tempura with teapot tempura sauce and pickled veggies
This photo gallery exhibition captures the essence of this mesmerizing country, highlighting its vibrant culture, stunning landscapes, and quirky fusion of old and new. As you explore, learn how easy it is to recreate this immersive experience using MDX magic and Tailwind classes for your own projects.
MDX Features Highlight:
Since we are using mdx, we can create a simple responsive flexbox grid to display our images with a few tailwind css classes.
Gallery
Implementation
<div className="-mx-2 flex flex-wrap overflow-hidden xl:-mx-2">
<div className="my-1 w-full overflow-hidden px-2 xl:my-1 xl:w-1/2 xl:px-2">
<figure>
<figcaption>Fig.1 - Shibuya Crossing.</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
<div className="my-1 w-full overflow-hidden px-2 xl:my-1 xl:w-1/2 xl:px-2">
<figure>
<figcaption>Fig.2 - Kyoto.</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
<div className="my-1 w-full overflow-hidden px-2 xl:my-1 xl:w-1/2 xl:px-2">
<figure>
<figcaption>Fig.3 - Hiroshama.</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
<div className="my-1 w-full overflow-hidden px-2 xl:my-1 xl:w-1/2 xl:px-2">
<figure>
<figcaption>Fig.4 - Dotonbari.</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
<div className="my-1 w-full overflow-hidden px-2 xl:my-1 xl:w-1/2 xl:px-2">
<figure>
<figcaption>Fig.5 - Hakone.</figcaption>
</figure>
</div>
</div>
With MDX v2, one can interleave markdown in jsx as shown in the example code.
Reference
- wikihow Sumimasen
- theculturetrip hiroshima oysters where to eat the city's famous delicacy
- YT channel TabiEats
- Japan travel how-to-get-a-suica-card
Photo Credits
Photo by Flora Hon on Unsplash
Photo by Daisy Chen on Unsplash